# followup turn into a 41 connected series # Interior structure, exterior aesthetic ## Fashion In her May 2021 video diary where Cathy Hay is researching and reconstructing the [1903 peacock dress](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Curzon%27s_peacock_dress) by [[Jean-Philippe Worth]], she discussed the relationship between the internal structure and external drapery of later period Worth gowns. Worth is remembered as a pioneer for haute couture, but Hay reminds us that he was also a pioneer for mass production. Women would order a dozen dresses from the House of Worth at a time, and typically needed them prepared quickly for travel (for example, a transatlantic voyage to America). This necessitated finding a way to create high quality gowns, but still keep pace to demand. This was achieved by adjusting the style of the gown, in which you would create a more fitted internal structure, followed by draping a single piece of fabric across the front and back to speed up production, as opposed to a more custom-fitted bodice. Hay shares an example of a period pattern she made to measure using precise instructions from 1908, and it fits her like a glove. This interior layer helps to give the overall garment structure, so that a dress in the mass production style that Worth was designing at the time could support the weight of the exterior draping of material. ## Architecture Along a similar line, the Hallidie Building in [[San Francisco]] is an early example of a building design that rethought exterior aesthetic by refocusing on internal structure. Designed by [[Willis Polk]] and completed in February 1918, this building is considered to be the pre-cursor to the modern glass curtain wall. By comparison to other buildings being designed and built at the time where at least 50% of the facade was masonry or exterior supporting columns, the Hallidie building features a full expanse of windows by using a cantilevered glass curtain facade. The support structure is all internalized and stepped back from the windows, with ornate fire escapes integrated in to the aesthetic and ornamentation. --- keywords: [[Architecture]], [[History, fashion]] --- References: [[Peacock Dress May 2021 Video Diary Sewing Tips and Tricks for Victorian Pattern Drafting (Cathy Hay)]] [[dills1971HallidieBuilding|Dills, K. W. (1971). The Hallidie Building.]]